Q: Is Rustin’s Danish Oil food safe?
A: Yes, it complies with Plastic Materials and Articles in contact with food (England) Regulation 2008.

Q: Can I mix Rustin’s Wood Dye with Rustin’s Danish Oil?
A: Yes - the ratio is 1:3; Wood Dye: Danish Oil.

Q: Can I apply any Varnish over Rustin’s Danish?
A: Yes, you can apply any good quality oil based varnish or paint over Rustin’s Danish Oil (which can be used as a primer).

Q: Can I use Strypit on Fibreglass?
A: No, please do not use Rustin’s Strypit on fibreglass, as it may attach to the fibreglass.  We are in process of developing a water-based paint and varnish stripper that can be use on fibreglass.

Q: How do I remove Danish Oil that has dried hard on my window panes?
A. The best product to use is Rustin’s Strypit Paint and Vanish Remover. Take care not to get it on any painted or varnished surfaces.

Q: Can I use Rustin’s Wood Dye under all of Rustin’s finishes?
A: Yes you can.

Q: Can I use Rustin’s Wood Dye under other manufacturers finishes?
A: We recommend that you carry out a test first.

Q: What is the best way to remove water stains from timber?
A: Rustin’s Wood Bleach kit can be used to remove stains but care must be taken, as it will also lighten the colour of the wood.

Q: Will Knotting hold back resin in knots if pressure builds up or when thewood gets warm?
A: No - Knotting is designed to stop the discolouration of light coloured paint. If there is excess rosin in the knots this should be removed first with a heat gun.

Q: How often should I re-apply Danish Oil to my kitchen worktop?
A: We would recommend that it is re-applied once a year but this is dependent on how much the work surface is used.

Q: Can I use a water-based dye under a solvent-based coating and vice versa?
A: Yes, when using Rustin’s products. Rustin’s Floor Dye is water based but can be used under all of our floor coatings or clear finishes. Rustin’s Wood Dye is solvent-based and can also be used under all of our floor coatings and clear finishes.

The most important thing is to allow the correct drying time before applying the finish over the dye.

Q: Do I have to sand between coats?
A: This depends on the type of finish used. Water-based finishes such as Acrylic Varnish and Acrylic Floor Coating tend to raise the grain when the first coat is applied. After the first coat has dried, raised grain should be lightly sanded smooth before applying the subsequent coats.

Solvent-based finishes do not usually require sanding between coats. However these finishes may be sanded if required to remove any imperfections such as drips or runs, for example. If an extended period has occurred since the previous coat had dried it is wise to lightly hand sand the surface to provide a key.

If using wet & dry paper, use white spirit as the lubricant, not water, which can damage partially cured finishes.

Use only very fine grades of abrasive paper.

Q: Should I use a water-based finish or a solvent-based finish?
A: Each type of finish has its own advantages. Solvent-based finishes tend to bring out the grain of wood and the colour often deepens when these are applied. Applying some water to the bare wood is a good prediction of how a solvent-based finish will affect the wood. Polyurethanes have a rich amber tone and also darken on ageing, however they are relatively slow drying. Plastic Coating is non-yellowing on ageing, chemically and abrasion resistant and very fast drying. The wood itself will continue to change colour regardless of the type of finish applied.

Water-based finishes such as Acrylic Varnish or Exterior Varnish tend to have the least effect on the colour of the natural wood and are non-yellowing on ageing. They are also quick-drying, low-odour and brushes can be cleaned in water.

Q: How can I protect my timber without altering the colour of the wood?
A: Water-based finishes such as Acrylic Varnish or Exterior Varnish tend to have the least effect on the colour of the natural wood and are non-yellowing on ageing. They are also quick-drying, low odour and brushes can be cleaned in water. Please be aware though that the timber itself will darken regardless of the coating applied, this is particularly true with resinous timbers such as Pine.

Q: What can I use to seal my wooden kitchen work surface?
A: For a durable heat, water and alcohol resistant finish we would advise that Plastic Coating is used. It is important that any end-grain is sealed, especially around the sink area. Please leave for at least 48 hours for the coating to fully harden before allowing food to come in contact.

Many people prefer the natural look that oils impart to timber. Danish Oil and Teak Oil are popular for this purpose. Danish Oil will give a low lustre satin finish, Teak Oil will dry glossy. Although oiled surfaces will have some resistance to staining they are not as durable as varnishes and must be regularly maintained. Apply at least five coats initially, thinning the first coat with 20% White Spirit to improve penetration. Leave for 48 hours to allow the solvents to evaporate before allowing food to come into contact. Re-oil at least every 6 months.

Q: Can I use clear coatings externally?
A: Coloured varnishes such as Rustin’s Exterior Wood Stain and coloured Flexterior will give more protection than their transparent alternatives. This is because the pigments provide good protection from UV light, slowing down the deterioration of the coating.

Our clear varnishes such as Rustin’s Exterior Varnish, Garden Furniture Oil and Clear Flexterior contain UV a

Q: I want to apply a protective coating to my wood without darkening the colour. Which product should I use?
A: Indoors, use Rustin’s Quick Drying Clear Varnish. Outdoors, use either Rustin’s Outdoor Clear Varnish or Rustin’s Flexterior Clear.

Q: What preparation is required prior to the use of Rustin’s varnishes?
A: For bare wood, lightly sand, wash with white spirit, and dry with a paper towel. For previously varnished wood, remove any loose or unsound varnish, lightly sand and as above.

Q: After applying one coat of varnish the wood feels rough. What should I do?
A: The varnish has raised the grain slightly give it a light sand rubbing in the direction of the grain and clean with a damp paper towel before applying the next coat.

Q: Should I apply Knotting solution prior to varnishing?
A: No, wipe over with White Spirit and allow to dry. The varnish will seal the knots.

Q: I want to lighten the colour of my varnished wood. Will applying a light coloured varnish work?
A: No, if you wish to lighten, you will need to remove the varnish with Rustin’s Strypit, wash the surface with water, dry with a paper towel and apply Rustin’s Wood Bleach. This can then be sealed with Rustin’s Quick Drying Clear Varnish.

Q: Can I apply any Rustin’s varnish on top of oils such as Danish or Teak Oil?
A: Yes, either Polyurethane Varnishes or Flexterior after ensuring that the surface is free from contaminants by washing with White Spirit and drying with a paper towel.

Q: I am ready to apply my second coat of varnish but it is over 24 hours since I applied the last coat, what should I do?
A: You will merely need to wipe the surface with a damp cloth and allow to dry before applying the next coat.

Q: Which Rustin’s varnish products are safe to use on children’s toys, furniture and cots?
A: Either Polyurethane or Quick Drying Indoor Varnishes.

Q: What is the safest product to use on my dog kennel or rabbit hutch?
A: If kept indoors then either Rustin’s Polyurethane or Quick Drying Indoor Varnishes. If kept outdoors, use either Rustin’s Danish or Teak Oil and if a colour is required, Rustin’s Wood Dye sealed with either Rustin’s Danish or Teak Oil.

Q: I have softwood floorboards. Will Rustin’s Floor Varnishes stop the wood from indenting?
A: No, whilst they are extremely durable, they will not harden softwood but will indent with the wood.
  

Q: Can Rustin’s Radiator Paint be applied to surrounding paintwork such as skirting boards?
A: Yes, either Enamel or Quick Drying.

Q: Can solvent-based paint be applied over Rustin’s Quick Drying Primer/Undercoat?
A: Yes, it can be applied once the primer has fully dried.

Q: Can I paint over stained wood?
A: Yes, but we would recommend first applying a coat of Rustin’s Aluminium Wood Primer as this will seal the stain.

Q: I want to remove very old paint, what should I do?
A: Use a chemical stripper such as Rustin’s Strypit rather than sanding or burning the paint off.

Q: Are any primers or undercoats required prior to the application of Rustin’s Quick Drying Floor Paint?
A: No, but the surface should be free from contaminants by washing with a mild detergent and allowing to dry.

Q: What stains can Rustin’s Stain Blocker cover?
A: Rust, grime, nicotine, graffiti, water, pen, ink, felt tip, paint and general discoloration.

Q: Can I apply Rustin’s Speciality Paints over a previously varnished surface?
A: Yes, but you will have to lightly sand to provide a key and wipe the surface with either White Spirit for a solvent-based paint or with water for a Quick Drying, water-based paint.

Q: Which Rustin’s speciality paints and oils products are safe to use on children’s toys, furniture and cots?
A: Blackboard Black, Radiator Paint, Danish Oil, Teak Oil and Wood Dye.

Q: Can Rustin’s Danish Oil be applied to floors?
A: No.  It leaves open grains which could make the floor dirty. We recommend Rustin’s Floor Oil.

Q: There is some sediment at the bottom of my can. Is the product ok to use?

A: It is normal to find some sediment in most products, simply stir the product thoroughly before use to incorporate the sediment. Use a broad implement such as a palette knife or a wide flat stick.

Satin and Matt finishes contain a matting agent which settles upon storage.  Coloured products contain pigments which may also settle, such as Rustin’s Floor Dye, Coloured Varnish and Brick & Tile Paint, to name a few.  If the sediment is not thoroughly mixed-in by stirring, the product may dry to the wrong sheen (i.e. glossy instead of matt) or may result in the wrong colour.