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FAQ's

Danish Oil

 

Q: Can Danish Oil be used outdoors?
A:Yes, it can be used outdoors but it will need occasional inspection and may need re-application at regular intervals.
 
Q: What can you use it on?
A: Ideal for Tables, Chairs, Wooden Furniture, Doors, Dado Rails, Wood, Panelling, Window, Frames/Sills, Wooden Worktops – basically, all types of wood.
 
Q: How often should I re-apply Danish Oil to my kitchen worktop?
A: We would recommend that it is re-applied once a year but this is dependent on how much the work surface is used.
 
Q: Can I apply any Varnish over Rustins Danish Oil?
A: Yes, you can apply any good quality oil based varnish or paint over Rustins Danish Oil (which can be used as a primer).
 
Q: Why are there 2 Danish Oils?
A: The latest Danish Oil is Outdoor Danish Oil which has the advantages of being quick drying, contains UV absorbers and is free of solvent (VOC).
 
Q: Does the Original Danish Oil contain UV absorbers for extra outdoor protection?
A: The Original Danish Oil does not contain UV absorbers and is made to the same formulation that was used when Rustins’ first introduced the oil.
 
Q: What is the difference in the final finish with Original Danish Oil and Outdoor Danish Oil?
A: The Original Danish Oil is a solvent based product that takes longer to dry compared to Outdoor Danish Oil which is water based. They both give the wood a natural, low lustre finish.
 
Q: Are both oils food safe?
A: Yes both oils comply with the Plastic Materials and Articles in contact with food (England) Regulation 2008
 
Q: Can Rustins Wood Dye be mixed with both oils?
A: No it can only be added to Rustins Original Danish Oil at the ratio of 1:3 Wood Dye: Danish Oil
 
Q: Can the oils be mixed?
A: No the oils cannot be mixed
 
Q. How do you apply the Danish Oils?
A: Using a clean soft cloth or brush apply liberally, then wipe off the excess after a few minutes. For a superior smooth finish the final coat may be applied using a plastic scouring pad, rubbing in the direction of the grain, wiping away the surplus with a soft cloth or paper towels. New or bare wood should be oiled 3 times initially.
 
Q. How much does 1 litre cover
A. 1 litre covers approximately 14 square metres per coat depending on the absorbency of the wood.

Q. Can you use it over veneered doors?
A: Some manufacturers of veneered doors do not recommend the use of oils on their doors but recommend the use of varnish. It is best to follow the advice of the manufacturer of the door.
 
Q: Can the oils be applied over one another?
A: The oils can be applied over one another providing that at each has has one week to fully cure.  At this point cleaning and light sanding of the surface is recommended.
 
Q: What is the best way to clean up spillages of The Original Danish Oil?
A: The oil is best cleaned with rags and white spirit.
 
Q: How do I remove The Original Danish Oil that has dried hard on my window panes?
A. The best product to use is Rustins Strypit Paint and Vanish Stripper. Take care not to get it on any painted or varnished surfaces.


General

 

Q: Can I use Strypit on Fibreglass?
A: No, please do not use Rustins Strypit on fibreglass, as it may attach to the fibreglass. 
 
Q: Can I use Rustins Wood Dye under all of Rustins’ finishes?
A: Yes you can.
 
Q: Can I use Rustins Wood Dye under other manufacturers finishes?
A: We recommend that you carry out a test first.
 
Q: What is the best way to remove water stains from timber?
A: Rustins Wood Bleach kit can be used to remove stains but care must be taken, as it will also lighten the colour of the wood.
 
Q: Will Knotting hold back resin in knots if pressure builds up or when the wood gets warm?
A: No - Knotting is designed to stop the discolouration of light coloured paint. If there is excess rosin in the knots this should be removed first with a heat gun.
 
Q: Do I have to sand between coats?
A: This depends on the type of finish used. Water-based finishes such as Quick Dry Varnish and Quick Dry Floor Varnish tend to raise the grain when the first coat is applied. After the first coat has dried, raised grain should be lightly sanded smooth before applying the subsequent coats.
 
Solvent-based finishes do not usually require sanding between coats. However these finishes may be sanded if required to remove any imperfections such as drips or runs, for example. If an extended period has occurred since the previous coat had dried it is wise to lightly hand sand the surface to provide a key.
If using wet & dry paper, use white spirit as the lubricant, not water, which can damage partially cured finishes.
Use only very fine grades of abrasive paper.
  
Q: Should I use a water-based finish or a solvent-based finish?
A: Each type of finish has its own advantages. Solvent-based finishes tend to bring out the grain of wood and the colour often deepens when these are applied. Applying some water to the bare wood is a good prediction of how a solvent-based finish will affect the wood. Polyurethanes have a rich amber tone and also darken on ageing, however they are relatively slow drying. Plastic Coating is non-yellowing on ageing, chemically and abrasion resistant and very fast drying. The wood itself will continue to change colour regardless of the type of finish applied.
Water-based finishes such as Quick Dry Varnish or Outdoor Varnish tend to have the least effect on the colour of the natural wood and are non-yellowing on ageing. They are also quick-drying, low-odour and brushes can be cleaned in water.
 
Q: How can I protect my timber without altering the colour of the wood?
A: Water-based finishes such as Quick Dry Varnish or Outdoor Varnish tend to have the least effect on the colour of the natural wood and are non-yellowing on ageing. They are also quick-drying, low odour and brushes can be cleaned in water. Please be aware though that the timber itself will darken regardless of the coating applied, this is particularly true with resinous timbers such as Pine.
 
Q: What can I use to seal my wooden kitchen work surface?
A: For a durable heat, water and alcohol resistant finish we would advise that Plastic Coating is used. It is important that any end-grain is sealed, especially around the sink area. Please leave for at least 48 hours for the coating to fully harden before allowing food to come in contact.
 
Many people prefer the natural look that oils impart to timber. Danish Oil and Teak Oil are popular for this purpose. Danish Oil will give a low lustre satin finish, Teak Oil will dry glossy. Although oiled surfaces will have some resistance to staining they are not as durable as varnishes and must be regularly maintained. Apply at least five coats initially, thinning the first coat with 20% White Spirit to improve penetration. Leave for 48 hours to allow the solvents to evaporate before allowing food to come into contact. Re-oil at least every 6 months.
 
Q: Can I use clear coatings externally?
A: Coloured varnishes such as Rustins Outdoor Wood Stain and coloured Flexterior will give more protection than their transparent alternatives. This is because the pigments provide good protection from UV light, slowing down the deterioration of the coating.
 
Our clear varnishes such as Rustins Exterior Varnish, Quick Dry Garden Furniture Oil and Clear Flexterior contain UV inhibitors.



Varnishes

 

Q: I want to apply a protective coating to my wood without darkening the colour. Which product should I use?
A: Indoors, use Rustins Quick Drying Clear Varnish. Outdoors, use either Rustins Outdoor Clear Varnish or Rustins Flexterior Clear.
 
Q: What preparation is required prior to the use of Rustins’ varnishes?
A: For bare wood, lightly sand, wash with white spirit, and dry with a paper towel. For previously varnished wood, remove any loose or unsound varnish, lightly sand and as above.
 
Q: After applying one coat of varnish the wood feels rough. What should I do?
A: The varnish has raised the grain slightly give it a light sand rubbing in the direction of the grain and clean with a damp paper towel before applying the next coat.
 
Q: Should I apply Knotting solution prior to varnishing?
A: No, wipe over with White Spirit and allow to dry. The varnish will seal the knots.
 
Q: I want to lighten the colour of my varnished wood. Will applying a light coloured varnish work?
A: No, if you wish to lighten, you will need to remove the varnish with Rustins Strypit Paint and Varnish Stripper, wash the surface with water, dry with a paper towel and apply Rustins Wood Bleach. This can then be sealed with Rustins Quick Drying Clear Varnish.
 
Q: Can I apply any Rustins’ varnish on top of oils such as Danish or Teak Oil?
A: Yes, either Polyurethane Varnishes or Flexterior after ensuring that the surface is free from contaminants by washing with White Spirit and drying with a paper towel.
 
Q: I am ready to apply my second coat of varnish but it is over 24 hours since I applied the last coat, what should I do?
A: You will merely need to wipe the surface with a damp cloth and allow to dry before applying the next coat.
 
Q: Which Rustins’ varnish products are safe to use on children’s toys, furniture and cots?
A: Either Polyurethane or Quick Drying Indoor Varnishes.
 
Q: What is the safest product to use on my dog kennel or rabbit hutch?
A: If kept indoors then either Rustins Polyurethane or Quick Drying Indoor Varnishes. If kept outdoors, use either Rustins Danish or Teak Oil and if a colour is required, Rustins Wood Dye sealed with either Rustins Danish Oil or Teak Oil.
 
Q: I have softwood floorboards. Will Rustins Floor Varnishes stop the wood from indenting?
A: No, whilst they are extremely durable, they will not harden softwood but will indent with the wood.


Speciality Paints & Oils
 

Q: Can Rustins Radiator Paint be applied to surrounding paintwork such as skirting boards?
A: Yes, either Enamel or Quick Drying.
 
Q: Can solvent-based paint be applied over Rustins Quick Drying Primer/Undercoat?
A: Yes, it can be applied once the primer has fully dried.
 
Q: Can I paint over stained wood?
A: Yes, but we would recommend first applying a coat of Rustins Aluminium Wood Primer as this will seal the stain.
 
Q: I want to remove very old paint, what should I do?
A: Use a chemical stripper such as Rustins Strypit Paint and Varnish Stripper rather than sanding or burning the paint off.
 
Q: What stains can Rustins Stain Blocker cover?
A: Rust, grime, nicotine, graffiti, water, pen, ink, felt tip, paint and general discoloration.
 
Q: Can I apply Rustins’ Speciality Paints over a previously varnished surface?
A: Yes, but you will have to lightly sand to provide a key and wipe the surface with either White Spirit for a solvent-based paint or with water for a Quick Drying, water-based paint.
 
Q: Which Rustins’ speciality paints and oils products are safe to use on children’s toys, furniture and cots?
A: Blackboard Black, Radiator Paint,Small Job Paint, Danish Oil, Finishing Oil, Teak Oil and Wood Dye.
 
Q: Can Rustins Danish Oil be applied to floors?
A: No.  It leaves open grains which could make the floor dirty. We recommend Rustins Floor Oil.
 
Q: There is some sediment at the bottom of my can. Is the product ok to use?
A: It is normal to find some sediment in most products, simply stir the product thoroughly before use to incorporate the sediment. Use a broad implement such as a palette knife or a wide flat stick.
 
Satin and Matt finishes contain a matting agent which settles upon storage.  Coloured products contain pigments which may also settle, such as Coloured Varnish and Brick & Tile Paint, to name a few.  If the sediment is not thoroughly mixed-in by stirring, the product may dry to the wrong sheen (i.e. glossy instead of matt) or may result in the wrong colour.

 

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